The Mystical Island of Tristan da Cunha

We so often find ourselves in conversations where we list the 5 or 10 places we just have to go before we die. Venice, Peru, the Pyramids of Giza and the Great Wall of China are often top-rankers amongst peoples’ lists, and rightfully so. They are historic, majestic and provide a romanticized curiosity in us that we might just find something magical there. There is however another place which I have yet to hear on anyone’s list, yet even spoken from their lips. Enter Tristan da Cunha.

Tristan da Cunha is the worlds most remotely inhabited island and is situated in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean between South Africa and Brazil. The misfortunes of an Atlantic yacht crossing from Rio de Janeiro to Cape Town suddenly became a blessing in surprise when the captain informed us we would be stopping at Tristan to restock supplies and make critical repairs to the engine and mainsail. We had no idea what was waiting for us on this isolated little landmass in the sea, needless to say, the surprise was pleasant.

Now I am not going to sit and give you a history or geography lesson on the island, that’s why we have Google and Wikipedia. What I am rather going to do is tell you about how I experienced life on Tristan in the quaint little town of Edinburgh of the Seven Seas and about the people that make it so incredible.

Our arrival could not have taken place at a more inconvenient time that the late Sunday afternoon when we dropped anchor off the island. Greeted first by the medical doctor for routine checks, we were ferried through the minuscule fishing harbour to land within minutes. Awaiting us there were Conrad Glass (Policeman and Immigration Officer – you can read more about him in is biography the Rockhopper Copper) and Dawn Rapetto (Head Coordinator of Tourism) who became our most appreciated friends on the island. We cleared customs and were treated to a warm coffee and cake at the tourism centre – a welcoming start to a welcoming visit.

We took the next few days slowly as we frequented the ‘supermarket’ and Tourism Centre Cafe for more cake whilst getting through our much needed repairs. After 23 days at sea we were ecstatic when Dawn welcomed us into her house for a warm shower (and more coffee and cake!). We were spoilt by Conrad with fresh beef cuts, free range eggs and a hearty loaf of freshly baked bread from his wife. An encounter with Eric from the Crayfish Factory soon led to a tour of the family potato patches and grazing meadows in his rustic Land Rover. We got to hike the eruption site of the 1961 volcano, reminding ourselves that the entire island itself is an ancient volcano. As a place to visit I could not recommend it more highly, but the true uniqueness came from the stories and understanding of the people of Tristan.

There are currently 262 islanders who are made up of 8 founding families and still retain those 8 surnames. With limitations on numbers of livestock and crops, family plays an ever more important role in ensuring the livelihood of one’s relatives. The ever apparent sense of community is overwhelming, with every person on the island engaged in some form of occupation or employment. The lifestyle is unhurried and work finished at 14:30 daily to allow families to tend to their potato patches which are a substantial 3 miles aways. Saturdays are also reserved for tending to the potatoes and livestock. The islanders enjoy 28 days leave per year – not including the closing of business for 3 weeks over Christmas and the benefits of both South African, British and local public holidays (such as Rat Hunting Day). It is no wonder then that the life expectancy is between 80-90 years.

The people there taught me that while we live in our overpopulated cities we could in fact never be more alone. They know each other by name, they share even if they do not have abundance and they participate in the community. They are self sufficient in 99% of trades and families come together to build homes for young males entering into marriage and starting their own families. The island is modern in ways but has managed to strike a phenomenal balance in maintaining authenticity and historic culture while not allowing itself to be left in the dark ages. It is as much a surreal eye opener as it is a lesson on good living for the earth and for family and I already feel an itchiness in my feet to return to that magical little island. It is amazing what a unexpected detour in ones life journey can provide. Now I can say without a doubt that Tristan is atop my list of amazing life experiences.

Belonging with the Baptistes

So in my last blog when I made the bold statement of retiring from the conformity of a standard societal existence, there was something I never mentioned. As much as I seek to live a life of continuous fulfillment and meaning, I do just so happen to exist in a world who’s economy of exchange is driven by $$$ (…cash monies). Now those of you who know me might just know that as elaborately as I would like to live, I come from a humble farming background and a trust fund is something I only hear about in the likes of Jersey Shores – no I don’t watch the series! So yes, retiring sans pension fund is an extremely bold move for a 27 year old.

Enter the Baptistes, Chantelle and Trevor, my siblings living in Jozi. When going through my soul-searching and deciding whether to make a career and life change, it was their support and assurance which finally allowed me to take he final step and make my move.

Last week I moved up to Jozi and into their home, where they welcomed me with open arms. Now whether to feel as an adopted son or third party to their marriage I don’t know, but the last thing I feel like is a simple guest or passerby. They have given me a place to call home and a safe environment in which to fail as I find my feet in this path of life. I am off for my travels and yachting adventures in Brazil next week, but I already know that when this traveller returns he will have a place to call home, filled with loving family, waiting to welcome him back.

So my message in writing this is to remind you of the age old advice surrounding family that your parents tell you. Love your family and value the relationships which you have with them. They are the one constant you will experience in life and one of your balls which will always bounce back. Perhaps blood really is thicker than water.

Chan and Trev, this one if for you. A million times, THANK YOU.